Urban Jürgensen reference 1
Yellow gold automatic chronograph with triple calendar and moon phases
UJS Box and outer packaging
UJS strap & buckle
The Urban Jürgensen reference 1 was the first timepiece released under Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt, after Peter Baumberger acquired Urban Jürgensen in 1979. The reference 1 was a limited edition of only 186 pieces, all in yellow gold and white gold with an exception of 15 platinum examples which were produced later in 2001, released in 1982 and produced until 1986. And there was one example that had been modified by George Daniels with his co-axial escapement.
The reference 1 is an automatic chronograph with triple date and moonphase based on the Zenith El Primero 3019 PHC. The watch embodies a traditional ethos of watchmaking, the hand-engine turned dial by Derek Pratt which is original Breguet frosted. The Breguet minutes, hours and seconds hands are hand-made of gold. The chronograph seconds hand, 30 minutes and 12 hours counter hands are as well hand-made of flame blued steel. It comes in a 40mm yellow gold case with screw caseback, waterproof, and each single teardrop lug is forged and welded to the case. The pusher at 9 o’clock is for the setting of the moonphase and the pusher at 8 o’clock is for the setting of the day. With the crown set on the second position, the date and month can be set.
This example shows the white day and month windows in English. Whereas there are other examples with the day and month in blue color. The more, this timepiece comes in overall great condition and retains its original box, outer packaging, leather strap and buckle.
I welcome and will respond to your request on my address: info@watchcollector.lu
ChB
Movement:
Automatic chronograph lever movement
Zenith El Primero 3019 PHC Caliber 41.0
31 jewels , 36000 VPH
d 30mm, h 6.5mm
Case:
18kt yellow gold with stepped lugs
solid satin-finished screw back
flat pushers and integrated crown
calendar pushers at “9” and “8”
each single lug forged and welded to the case
case and dial signed
d 40mm
waterproof
Dial:
Silver dial (bombé) with outer minute track and Derek Pratt’s typical and very fine patterns of engine turning with grain d’orges in the center and damier for the counters, 3 filets sautés for separating the different zones, satin-brushed circular hour circle with radial set Roman numerals, separate signature shield at “12”, all inscriptions are repeatedly black pad printed to create a voluminous smooth lay out
silver, original Breguet frost
bombé
guilloché main by Derek Pratt
apertures for day date and month
silvered discs with English calendar
aperture for the moon at “6”
gold Breguet hands
flame blued steel chronograph hands
Patek Philippe 5711/1A-010
Double Sealed, Full Set & Patek winder
Double sealed, Full set plus the original Patek winder, this Patek Philippe 5711 comes as a serious collector piece which is rarely seen on the market in this combination. (the serial numbers are only blacked out on the photos)
Reference 5711 was launched in 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus. Inspired by the classic sporty design of the original reference 3700 Jumbo Nautilus, the present updated modern reference features sweep center seconds and a larger 42.5 mm case size.
Discontinued, the success of reference 5711 has exploded and waiting lists were up to ten years.
I welcome and will respond to your request on my address: info@watchcollector.lu
ChB
Movement:
automatic
26-330 SC
Case:
Stainless steel
Dial:
Blue
Longines Calatrava, 1938
14kt yellow gold case, 38mm
Black épargne dial by Lemmerich
These Longines Calatrava’s are highly appreciated now a days by collectors, due to the timeless design, quality and sublime presence on the wrist.
This example has a lovely and rarely seen black épargne dial made by Lemmerich. These dials were very complicated to be made and do add tremendous value. The examination of the dial shows that it is all original and correctly stamped on the back with the correct signs of how this dial was made back in the day.
The case is 38mm, 3 parts, each lug is soldered to the case and it is made in 14kt yellow gold, which is not so common. Most of these watches were made in stainless steel at that time. The more, the case is in perfect shape with a deep hallmark underneath the snap on caseback and has as well fixed bars.
The movement is a legendary 15.26 and is superbly preserved. It is gilt finished with beautiful black polished screws. The “roue de couronne” & the “rochet” do have a beautiful soleil finish on top and the tooth are black polished.
The combination of the 38mm, 14kt yellow gold case and the beautiful black épargne dial plus the overall excellent condition makes this timepiece certainly a connoisseur’s choice and a great addition to every high-class watch collection.
I welcome and will respond to your request on my address: info@watchcollector.lu
ChB
Movement:
15.26, manual wound
gilt finished
17 jewels
15 lignes
5.65mm high
Case:
14kt yellow gold
38mm diameter
Fixed bars
Dial:
Black épargne dial by Lemmerich
Universal Genève Compax, ca. 1942
Oversized stainless steel, 46mm
Silver satin dial by Stern Frères
It is interesting to realize that some of the most attractive and sought after vintage timepieces with a typical similar layout are from the early 1940's, they are found in models from Patek Philippe (1518A, 96A, etc), Longines, IWC, Omega and other famous brands. This rare oversized aviator design Compax model from Universal Genève, with its 46mm steel case, offers a breathtaking presence.
The backside of this original, untouched dial bears the punch mark and code of the dial manufacturer Stern Frères, a master dial maker of the period, famous for their quality and magic of their dials due to little, yet important details in manufacturer. The blank plate is silver galvanized with a vertical satin finish. The recessed subdials are decorated with a fine snailing done by hand with a laze. The plate is covered with a mat transparent lacquer called "sapon" (only on the front, not on the back), which protects against oxidation. Finally all inscriptions are applied by pad printing using different clichés. For the application of the luminescent radium, Stern sent the dial to an external supplier. Only 2 companies existed in Switzerland to do this work. The Lanzett blued steel radium hands were most likely made by Fiedler Geneva, the renowned manufacturer of hands and sole supplier of Stern Frères in this period. The minimal oxidation, especially seen on the contact with the bezel and on the back are natural signs of aging that underline the untouched original condition of the object.
While observing the 3 part case with snap back, one can say that it had never been polished: the sharp facets on the lugs, the sharp and strong bezel, the nice pushers and crown and satin finished sides. Each lug was crafted separately and then soldered to the case.
The ¾ plate caliber UG292 gilt lever movement represents a superb untouched condition. It has a beautiful screw mono-metallic balance. The polishing of the steel screws and of the oil sinks are hand finished and underline the movement as an example of a quality movement of the period.
The combination of the 46mm stainless steel case and the beautiful, rarely seen silver big radium dial plus the superb overall condition makes this timepiece certainly a connoisseur’s choice and a great addition to every high-class watch collection.
I welcome and will respond to your request on my address: info@watchcollector.lu
ChB
Movement:
UG292 manual wound
3/4 plate gilt lever movement
Screw mono-metallic balance
Hand finished screws and oil sink
17 jewels
35.2mm diameter
18000 vph
36 hours reserve
Case:
Stainless steel, 3 part
46mm diameter
Snap back
Fixed bars
22531 / 8780xx
Dial:
Stern Frères SA, Genève
Dial code 94 * 1801
Silver satin finish
Large radium numerals