Audemars Piguet, unique double complications, the only all original left of only 5 made in steel/pink

When it comes to vintage chronographs made by Audemars Piguet, the expression of rarity can be probably considered for each of the 307 chronographs produced by the watchmakers based in Le Brassus from 1930s to 1960s (overall production including moonphases, three compax, etc...)

 

BUT there is rare and then there is the epitome of rare as the much sought after reference 5503 with the moonphase and full calendar and chronograph. This reference was produced in only 5 pieces in combination of steel and pink gold case, one of these was re-cased in full yellow gold and belongs to the Audemars heritage collection today. All these 5 timepieces do have the legendary 13VZAQ movement ticking in their cases. Only 20! were produced with this movement double complication (chronograph, full calendar with moonphase) so 16 in full gold cases and 4 in steel/pink gold cases (considering the one that was re-cased).

 The 5503 is certainly the epitome of vintage watch collecting. Not only that there are only 4 with steel/pink gold case, but the more, all of these 4 had a different dial design. Whereas N°46538 is the only one with blue tachymeter in Miles, combining the beautiful art déco style carré hour indexes and 2tone shade of the dial (which is made by two different ways of finissage for the main dial and sub dials). The two tone shade is very discreet and looks amazing on this watch. The more it is the only watch of these 4 that still retains a copy of the original fabrication sheets plus a note by Charles Jean Stern about the production of the dial for this watch, which says that the dial is completely gravé émaillé.

 

This timepiece is certainly an extraordinary addition for every high-class collector, it combines rarity, uniqueness, quality, complications, craftmanship, design, everything what every high-class collector is looking for.

Make your request by e-mail on my address info@watchcollector.lu

Tissot - cloisonné émail "The Americas" by Cadran Stern, only 2 made!

Watches with cloisonné émail dials made by Cadran Stern belong to the most sought after timepieces for every high-class collector, as this superb Tissot "The Americas". There is as well no difference in the quality of the émail used for this Tissot and f.ex the famous "Caravelle" by Rolex or the Patek Philippe 605HU. The only difference is probably the price, the Rolex "Caravelle" and Patek Philippe 605HU are into the 7 digits whereas this Tissot "The Americas" is available into the 5 digits at my boutique.

The more, the present example comes with a copy of the original Cadran Stern prototype painting which adds even more value to this watch. And there were only 2 examples with "The Americas" made for Tissot (as one can see on the extract from the original order book of Cadran Stern). Interesting to note is that researches indicated that there were 6 Rolex timepieces made with "The Americas" émail dial by Cadran Stern, but different in a different design.Made in 1951, by the famous émailleuse Mrs Koch, one can only imagine how many hours of pure craftsmanship it took to handicraft this dial. When you take a look at the present example, you will notice that the dial is completely émail finished, so to say to the borders of the dial and this adds as well more difficulties in production for the émailleuse to get a perfect result. Compared for example to the famous Rolex Caravelle and others, on which you have the émail only in the center of the dial (that dial is a combination of champlevé and cloisonné). I do personally love when the dial is finished as the present one, it adds more presence to it, more character, more charm, simply breathtaking.

On the photo with the original painting and extract from the Stern order book, you can see the original painting by Mrs Koch, Cadran Stern, with the N°14 which corresponds to the information in the original Cadran Stern order book. As mentioned before, the watch comes with a copy of the original painting and a copy of the original order book which adds tremendous value to the watch and which certainly is a great testimony of its originality. On the other photo you can see an extract from the original Cadran Stern order book with different information, including N°14 which corresponds to the original painting, 3/4 which corresponds to the 12/3/9 o'clock Arabic hour indexes, the indexes are made of 18kt gold, etc....

This extraordinary Tissot "The Americas" is certainly a great addition for every high-class collector.

Make your request by e-mail on my address info@watchcollector.lu

Audemars Piguet A-series, full spec

When it comes to watches that every high class collector should have in its collection then the legendary Patek Philippe 3700/1 and Audemars Piguet 5402ST-A Series are usually on the list too.

Both are designed by Gerald Genta, the 5402-A in 1972 and the 3700/1 in 1976. The case designs show both an octagon form, which is still present on the modern versions of these two references. But for me, the epitome is always the beginning, the first ones, the 5402-A and 3700/1.

One of the most interesting design parts on the two watches is the dial. The design was developed by Cadran Stern, Roland Tille who was back then the master developer at cadran stern. Gérald Genta approached Roland Tille in 1972 to develope a design for the dial of the Audemars Piguet 5402ST. Roland Tille then used the newly developed method of "tapisserie" to create 13 examples of different designs and Audemars chose the one design that is still in the DNA of the Royal Oak today. The A-series has a tapisserie finissage, black galvanic dial with a protective layer of lacquer on it.

The idea to create this design with the technique of "tapisserie" originates of a dial that Roland Tille created in 1971 for Movado, their St. Christopher model. As Roland Tille said, the design of this dial for Movado resulted in the development of the "tapisserie" technique and so into the legendary design of the 5402ST and 3700/1 dial design!

When Genta was asked by Patek Philippe to design in 1976 their Nautilus, he remembered the fabulous work of Roland Tille for the Royal Oak and approached him again to develop a dial design for the Nautilus. Roland Tille then presented 10 different designs for the dial and it was Henry Stern who chose the design of the legendary Nautilus, which still lasted till today. On the first 50 examples they used the same method as for the 5402ST, "tapisserie", but then they saw that it was too difficult to get a perfect result with this method of fabrication and changed then to a different technique which is called "rabotage". The rabotage is not made with the "tapisserie" machine anymore but with a manually operated cutter, each line of the dial is cut individually. The Patek Philippe 3700/1 has finissage rabotage, blue galvanic and a special black lacquer on it N50.

This A-series is certainly a great addition for every high-class collector. It comes as full spec with its original bracelet, clasp, "AP" links, original crown, a superbly preserved dial and a strong case.

Make your request by e-mail on my address info@watchcollector.lu

Patek Philippe 2584, NOS. Only 2 known with black dial!

To find one of these reference 2584 in NOS condition is almost impossible and in combination with black dial it is a really rare timepiece. The reference 2584 is powered by the legendary 12-600AT movement and comes in a case of 36mm.

 

The present example is simply amazing. Only 2 yellow gold with black dial watches do exist and this is the only one in truly NOS condition, as you can see from the images. A spectacular watch and certainly a great addition for every high-class collector.  The dial is made by Cadran Stern with the complicated "épargne" technique, which means that first the base plate is gilted, then the signature, minuterie and small seconds are protected by a special lacquer, after that the dial is colored in a black galvanique bath. After the black color has dried, the protective lacquer is taken off. Later the hour baton indexes and the 12 o'clock indexes are added.

Such a dream timepiece for every high-class collector.

Make your request by e-mail on my address info@watchcollector.lu

Rolex 6265 black Big Red, NOS condition

Now a days it is hard to find these Daytonas in really perfect condition. This 6265 black dial Big Red certainly is one of these examples. Perfect dial, perfect case, comes with guarantee and leaflet. I love the 6265 steel bezel in this combination with the black Big Red dial, it really has some presence on the wrist. Would make a great set together with the other Rolex 6265 silver tropical sub dials.

A great addition for every high-class collector.

Make your request by e-mail on my address info@watchcollector.lu

Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo from 1912, historical important, unique

 

This Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo from 1912 is a unique piece. It is the only Chronometro Gondolo in carré case with central seconds.

The dial is completely gravé & émaillé finished in the early Patek Philippe style, the émail is very flat and not as on later wristwatches more elevated. These type of dials are very rare to find in its original condition. But the most important feature on this dial is the "- T SWISS T -"  signature at 6 o'clock. This signature has nothing to do with the tritium vintage dials as found f.ex. on vintage Rolex wristwatches! This signature stands for Maurice Thiévant who was the master engraver at cadran Stern and who apprenticed Henri Stern the craftsmanship of hand engraved and émaillé dials. Due to Mr. Maurice Thiévant we do find nowadays these beautiful finished dials on the vintage Patek Philippe timepieces, as Mr. Henri Stern was fascinated by this craftsmanship and so continued to produce the Stern dials in this highly complicated style after he learned the complexity from Mr. Thiévant. It was Roland Tile who confirmed this story. Roland Tile worked as well together with Mr. Thiévant at cadran Stern, he passed away end of last year.


The more, the case retains as well in its exceptional original condition with the beautiful engraving on the caseback, the original crown, without any signs of restauration. This is a highly historical important timepiece from Patek Philippe, due to its story related to cadran stern and its uniqueness.

Make your request by e-mail on my address info@watchcollector.lu

Rolex 6542 Full Set

 

I am personally a big fan of the Rolex 6542 GMTs and they are rare to find in great condition and even rarer in combination as a Full Set. 

The present example is simply an amazing watch. It retains its original Bakelite in superb condition, nicely aged dial, strong case and original big logo bracelet. The more it retains as well the original guarantee, certificat de marche, original leaflet, correspondence between Rolex London and the client concerning a service made in 1987 (which service number can be found as well inside the caseback). These 6542's are rarely seen in such great condition in combination with all these original papers coming with it.


This 6542 is certainly a great addition for every high class collection.

Make your request by e-mail on my address info@watchcollector.lu

Patek Philippe 3700/1, tropical dial full spec

When it comes to watches that every high class collector should have in its collection then the legendary Patek Philippe 3700/1 and Audemars Piguet 5402ST-A Series are usually on the list too.

Both are designed by Gerald Genta, the 5402-A in 1972 and the 3700/1 in 1976. The case designs show both an octagon form, which is still present on the modern versions of these two references. But for me, the epitome is always the beginning, the first ones, the 5402-A and 3700/1.

One of the most interesting design parts on the two watches is the dial. The design was developed by Cadran Stern, Roland Tille who was back then the master developer at cadran stern. Gérald Genta approached Roland Tille in 1972 to develope a design for the dial of the Audemars Piguet 5402ST. Roland Tille then used the newly developed method of "tapisserie" to create 13 examples of different designs and Audemars chose the one design that is still in the DNA of the Royal Oak today. The A-series has a tapisserie finissage, black galvanic dial with a protective layer of lacquer on it.

The idea to create this design with the technique of "tapisserie" originates of a dial that Roland Tille created in 1971 for Movado, their St. Christopher model. As Roland Tille said, the design of this dial for Movado resulted in the development of the "tapisserie" technique and so into the legendary design of the 5402ST and 3700/1 dial design!

When Genta was asked by Patek Philippe to design in 1976 their Nautilus, he remembered the fabulous work of Roland Tille for the Royal Oak and approached him again to develop a dial design for the Nautilus. Roland Tille then presented 10 different designs for the dial and it was Henry Stern who chose the design of the legendary Nautilus, which still lasted till today. On the first 50 examples they used the same method as for the 5402ST, "tapisserie", but then they saw that it was too difficult to get a perfect result with this method of fabrication and changed then to a different technique which is called "rabotage". The rabotage is not made with the "tapisserie" machine anymore but with a manually operated cutter, each line of the dial is cut individually. The Patek Philippe 3700/1 has finissage rabotage, blue galvanic and a special black lacquer on it N50.

This 3700/1 is certainly a great addition for every collector. The watch comes is superb condition with a nicely aged tropical dial, strong case, oritinal clasp and strong bracelet.

Make your request by e-mail on my address info@watchcollector.lu

Rolex 6265 silver tropical sub dials, early example

 

I am personally a big fan of the early Daytona's with the simplicity dial design ROC signature. The present example is a 6265 with silver dial and nicely aged tropical sub dials from 1971. To find nowadays a Daytona in good condition is not that easy, especially when you are looking for an early tropical one.

 

 

When you are taking a look at the details, how nicely and different the sub dials has aged, that adds that little extra to the present example. The case remains in great condition, it comes with the correct MK2 pushers, correct bezel, correct 6262 caseback.

This Daytona would make a great daily beater and would be a cool addition together with the other Rolex 6265 black Big Red NOS.

Make your request by e-mail on my address info@watchcollector.lu

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Copyright @ Watch Collector 2020

Watch Collector by Christian Bissener is the official agent for:

 

Andersen Genève

Benzinger

Benzinger by Zanella

Haldimann

McGonigle

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Watch Collector by Christian Bissener does offer rare vintage timepieces:

 

Patek Philippe

Rolex

Vacheron & Constantin

Jaeger LeCoultre

Audemars Piguet

Omega

Heuer

Eberhard

Longines 

Bovet

Ulysse Nardin

Breitling

A. Lange & Söhne

Excelsior Park

Oris

Eldor

Movado

SOLD vintage timepieces