Phillips Geneva November 2016 – Patek and Rolex Picks

The catalogue assembled by Aurel Bacs, Livia Russo and their team for the Phillips Geneva sale of November 2016 is outstanding. Three Patek Philippe 1518, one in each metal, would be remarkable on their own, but the rest of the catalogue is just as strong.

My choices reflect a taste for the Albert watches and Calatravas by Patek, such as the 570 and 565, and for the early Explorer watches by Rolex. I chose eight pieces, with estimates from 5,000 to 400,000 CHF. The full offer is on the Phillips website.

Patek Philippe 3424, white gold

One of my favourite Patek Philippe dress watches is the 3424 “Gilbert Albert”, with its clean and stylish case and very discreet dial. This white gold example stands out from the others for its baton indexes and sublime condition. Lot 96, estimate 80,000–120,000 CHF.

Patek Philippe 565, pink gold

The 565 is a little sportier than a 570. It is water-resistant and has an inner soft-iron case, so it is almost a tool watch. This example is especially beautiful and rare, probably unique, with a pink gold case and a black dial signed by the retailer Freccero. Pink gold with a black dial gives a watch warmth and charm. Lot 194, estimate 40,000–60,000 CHF.

Rose gold watch with black dial, slim case and brown strap photographed on grey — Patek Philippe 565 in pink gold with black dial signed Freccero

Patek Philippe 565, steel

The only 565 in stainless steel with a black dial and luminous indexes and hands. It also has a remarkable story: Patek Philippe gave it to their night watchman, who passed it to his son several years ago. With the pink gold example, it would form a perfect pair of 565s. Lot 134, estimate 200,000–400,000 CHF.

Steel military-style wristwatch with black dial, gold Arabic numerals and tan strap — Patek Philippe 565 in steel with black luminous dial

Patek Philippe 570, steel

The dress watch of dress watches: a 570 in stainless steel with a black dial and Arabic numerals all around. The condition is perfect, and according to the catalogue it is the only 570 with this “telephone” black dial in a steel case. Estimate 150,000–300,000 CHF.

Steel round wristwatch with black dial, Arabic numerals and dark strap on a grey background — Patek Philippe 570 in steel with black telephone dial

Rolex 6352

I am a great fan of the early Explorers, which combine adventure, design and historical importance. The reference 6352 is linked to the Everest expedition of Sir Edmund Hillary. This example has a rare honeycomb dial with the depth rating at 12 o’clock; strictly it is the predecessor of the Explorer. It comes with guarantee and Rolex box. Lot 45, estimate 5,000–7,000 CHF.

Steel wristwatch with black dial and gold hands next to a box and paper documents — Rolex 6352 with honeycomb dial, guarantee and box

Rolex 6150

An interesting Explorer made for the British Army. It has the 369 dial but still lacks the Explorer signature. I like these dial variations within the Explorer family. Lot 79, estimate 10,000–15,000 CHF.

Steel wristwatch with black dial, gold hands and brown strap on a grey background — Rolex 6150 made for the British Army

Rolex 6350

My favourite of the group: the 6350 Explorer with early honeycomb dial, pencil hands and a tip-dot seconds hand. A superbly good-looking example. Lot 179, estimate 12,000–18,000 CHF.

Steel wristwatch with black dial and gold hands on a steel bracelet — Rolex 6350 with early honeycomb dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic, 1958

Neither a Patek Philippe nor a Rolex, but a Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic from 1958 with the very rare cross-hair dial. Finding a cross-hair dial is hard; finding one in the condition of this example is normally impossible. It could be the best Geophysic ever to have come to the market. Lot 17, estimate 15,000–25,000 CHF.

Steel wristwatch with silver dial, date window and black strap on a grey background — Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic, 1958, with cross-hair dial

Photographs: Phillips Watches.