Journal

Notes from the bench

Christian writes about the pieces, the people and the ateliers behind them.

Rolex Daytona 6265 with silver dial and brown tropical sub-dials on a steel bracelet
Collecting · Early Rolex 6265 with tropical sub-dials A 1971 Rolex 6265 with silver dial and tropical sub-dials, correct MK2 pushers, correct bezel and a 6262 caseback.
Rose and steel Audemars Piguet chronograph with moon phase and calendar subdials, brown suede strap
Collecting · Audemars Piguet reference 5503 – the epitome of the rare vintage chronograph Audemars Piguet reference 5503, a chronograph with full calendar and moon phase, is one of only 20 watches made with the 13VZAQ movement.
Rolex 1016 Explorer from 1960, black dial with 3, 6 and 9 numerals on a steel bracelet
Collecting · Rolex 1016 Explorer from 1960 – the “silver lining” dial Why the silver printing on early Rolex 1016 Explorer dials is rare, and how the épargne technique produced it.
Steel A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 with silver dial, outsize date, Roman numerals and brown alligator strap
Auctions · Lange 1 in steel at Dr. Crott, April 2020 Only around 20 Lange 1 watches in steel were made; the example at the April 2020 Dr. Crott auction was the ninth to reach the market.
Rolex 6265 Daytona with black dial, red Daytona lettering and steel bezel
Collecting · Rolex 6265 Daytona “Big Red” in perfect condition A Rolex 6265 Daytona with black “Big Red” dial and steel bezel, with perfect dial and case, guarantee and leaflet.
Omega Speedmaster 105.003-65 with black dial, tachymeter bezel and black strap, front view
Collecting · Omega Speedmaster 105.003-65 “Ed White” and the NASA Speedmasters The NASA Speedmasters from Schirra’s 2998-1 to Ed White’s 105.003-65, and a 105.003-65 in unworn NOS condition that came from its first owner.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST in steel with octagonal bezel and blue-grey tapisserie dial on a steel bracelet
Collecting · The Gérald Genta pair – Patek Philippe 3700/1 and Audemars Piguet 5402ST Designed by Gérald Genta in 1976 and 1972, the Patek Philippe 3700/1 and Audemars Piguet 5402ST are two icons, and their dials come from Cadran Stern.
Grieb & Benzinger platinum skeletonised split-second chronograph with silver dial on a navy strap, held in a hand
Collecting · Grieb & Benzinger – an 1889 Patek Philippe split second for Tiffany Grieb & Benzinger rebuilt an 1889 Patek Philippe split-second movement, sold to Tiffany in 1890, in a platinum case after over 1,000 hours of work.
Oval silver pocket watch by Derek Pratt with white dial, Roman numerals and moon phase, held in a hand
People · Derek Pratt – flying tourbillon with remontoir and detent escapement Derek Pratt, the watchmaker behind Urban Jürgensen from 1979, and the oval flying tourbillon with remontoir and detent escapement he built.
Square yellow gold Chronometro Gondolo wristwatch with silver dial, Arabic numerals and black strap
Collecting · Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo, 1912 – a historically important unique piece A unique Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo from 1912, the only one in a square case with centre seconds, with a dial signed by Cadran Stern’s engraver.
Rolex GMT-Master 6542 dial close-up with black dial, gilt markers, Pepsi bezel and date window
Collecting · Details of different dials – Rolex and Patek Philippe Close-up dial details of Rolex 6542, 6238, 6239, 6265, 1680, 1675 and 1016 and of Patek Philippe 3429, 2584, 605HU, 600P, 530 and 2499.
Patek Philippe Nautilus steel wristwatch, blue dial with date window at three, integrated bracelet
Collecting · Four different tropical shades A Patek Philippe 3700/1, a Rolex 6265 Daytona, a Rolex 6542 GMT-Master and an IWC 308 from 1942, each with its own natural tropical dial.