Geneva watch auctions, May 2026 – impressions and results

Auctions · · by Christian Bissener


Gold hunting-case pocket watch with white dial, chronograph sub-dials and moonphase, lid open, held in the hand

The Geneva auctions in May offered, as always, a mixed field in which the good pieces had to be separated from the rest. Our impressions follow, by house, with the results we noted.

It is encouraging to see pocket watches returning to the market and finally fetching the prices they deserve. Watchmaking history is considerably older than the year 2000, and for a long time more than three centuries of it were largely overlooked. We hope the trend continues, and that new buyers will follow the handful of major collectors currently active in the field once those collectors have completed their collections.

Sotheby’s

The Lange pocket watches did well. The Grande Complication sold for CHF 1,587,000 including premium, the Triple Complication for CHF 332,000 and the Chronometer Detent for CHF 70,400. The Rolex 6239J “Paul Newman” John Player Special, from the family of the original owner, sold for just under CHF 1.2 million, while the 6241 JPS, in less good condition and re-lumed, made CHF 640,000, all prices including premium.

Open gold hunter pocket watch showing its movement, held in the hand
A. Lange & Söhne pocket watch, movement

Gold hunter pocket watch with white dial, chronograph registers and moon phase, held in the hand
A. Lange & Söhne pocket watch, dial

Yellow gold Rolex chronograph with black dial and cream sub-dials on a dark strap, held in the hand
Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, yellow gold

Sotheby’s also showed the Steve McQueen TAG Heuer Monaco, offered in its New York sale. It is the watch he wore during the filming of Le Mans, and it comes with a substantial file of documents and photographs.

Square steel TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph with blue dial, white sub-dials and red seconds hand on a black strap
TAG Heuer Monaco worn by Steve McQueen in Le Mans

Phillips

A selection from the Phillips previews. Some of these watches sold in Geneva; others are offered in Hong Kong or New York.

This was a photograph we had hoped to take: five outstanding timepieces together. The unique Audemars Piguet Double Complications sold for just under CHF 1.1 million, which in our view remains good value for a landmark watch. The Charles de Gaulle Agassiz Worldtime pocket watch made just under CHF 1.5 million, again modest given its historical importance in the Second World War. The Patek Philippe 2523 with enamel South America dial sold for just under CHF 8 million to one of the leading collectors; we expect it to set records in a few years. The Patek Philippe 2499R, first series, Vichet, is to be sold in Hong Kong, and the Patek Philippe 1518R in New York. The 1518R is still a 1518R, but far from untouched.

Four gold wristwatches and an enamelled pocket watch in a Phillips display
Five highlights of the Phillips sale

Three gold moon phase chronographs with cream dials on brown, grey and tan straps
Gold perpetual calendar chronographs at the Phillips preview

Among the pocket watches, Karl Geitz sold for CHF 355,000, the Golay with equation of time for CHF 647,000, the Paul Ditisheim for CHF 1,270,000 and the Louis Audemars for CHF 2,516,000.

Silver open-face pocket watch with cream dial, subsidiary seconds and blued hands, numbered tag above
Silver pocket watch at the Phillips preview

Open silver pocket watch showing a tourbillon movement with a gold bridge
The same watch, movement

Gold pocket watch with cream dial, Arabic numerals, moon phase and several sub-dials, held in the hand
Gold pocket watch with moon phase at the Phillips preview

Gold hunter pocket watch with white enamel dial, black Roman numerals and subsidiary seconds, held in the hand
Gold hunter pocket watch at the Phillips preview

Gold pocket watch with multiple sub-dials, moon phase and chronograph registers, held in the hand
Gold pocket watch with several complications, dial

The independents also achieved strong results, some of which we understand better than others. It will be interesting to see over the next five to ten years whether such prices hold. Among the highlights were two Urban Jürgensen watches from the Derek Pratt and Peter Baumberger era: the Reference 2 prototype, which made CHF 508,000, and the Reference 6, which made CHF 152,400.

Two wristwatches: a gold tonneau watch with navy-blue dial beside a gold moon phase watch with Roman numerals
Urban Jürgensen Reference 2 prototype and Reference 6

The François-Paul Journe results were very strong and confirmed the brand’s standing among collectors. The Résonance 18/00R made CHF 4,875,500, and the Octa Chronographe 021/01C with straight Geneva stripes CHF 1,714,500. The Haldimann H1 Tourbillon sold for CHF 482,600. The Lange 101.002, with only its original guarantee and no other accessories, sold for CHF 35,560.

Four wristwatches with auction tags on tan, brown and navy straps
Independent watches at the Phillips preview

Casebacks of four wristwatches on cream straps, each with a numbered auction tag
The same four watches, casebacks

Christie’s

Christie’s sold a further Urban Jürgensen, a Derek Pratt and Peter Baumberger Reference 2 in white gold, for CHF 152,400.

Steel moon phase wristwatch with Roman numerals and a sub-seconds dial on a grey strap, held in the hand
Urban Jürgensen Reference 2, white gold