Épargne – details of a black épargne dial on a Patek Philippe 2584

Collecting · · by Christian Bissener


Close-up front view of a gold Patek Philippe with black dial, applied gold numerals, small seconds and brown strap

The black dial of this Patek Philippe 2584 is a fine example of the épargne technique, executed by Cadran Stern. The base plate is first gilded. The signature, minuterie and small seconds are then protected with a special lacquer, and the dial is coloured in a black galvanic bath. Once the black has dried, the protective lacquer is removed, leaving the gilt lettering and tracks standing out against the black.

The hour baton indexes and the 12 o’clock indexes are added afterward. They are fixed by “pickage” and then levelled by “limage”, as the reverse of the dial shows. This combination of pickage and limage was the standard method of the period. Together with épargne, it can be seen on other famous dials such as the Bao Dai.

Black dial of a Patek Philippe Genève wristwatch with gold hour markers and sub-second circle, dial only
Black épargne dial by Cadran Stern, signed Patek Philippe Genève

Reverse of a black dial showing mounting holes and gold-toned markers on a white background
Reverse of the dial: indexes fixed by pickage and levelled by limage