Details of different dials – Rolex and Patek Philippe

Collecting · · by Christian Bissener


Rolex GMT-Master 6542 dial close-up with black dial, gilt markers, Pepsi bezel and date window

Dials are where a vintage watch is best judged, and a close look at the details is always worthwhile. What follows is a selection of Rolex and Patek Philippe dials seen up close.

Rolex 6542 Serpico y Laino

Very rare with the Serpico y Laino signature and the matching, correctly signed “S&L Acero” caseback. This example has an aftermarket bezel, but remains a rare and handsome 6542.

Rolex 6238 with black dial

Increasingly sought after, and very hard to find in great condition.

Rolex 6238 chronograph with black dial and silver sub-dials, seen at an angle on a light surface
Rolex 6238 with black dial

Rolex 6239 “double swiss underline”

A 6239 with all the details a true double swiss underline needs is very rare. This example even retained its original bracelet.

Rolex 6239 chronograph with black dial, white sub-dials and tachymeter bezel on a steel bracelet
Rolex 6239 double swiss underline, with its original bracelet

Rolex 6239 Newman

The real Newman of all the Newmans, and a must for any high-class Rolex collection.

Rolex Cosmograph dial with cream face, black sub-dials and red Daytona signature
Rolex 6239 Newman

Rolex 6265

A very early example from 1971, with uniquely aged tropical sub-dials.

Rolex 6265 dial with brown tropical sub-dial on a cream face and tachymeter bezel
Rolex 6265, 1971 – the aged tropical sub-dials

Rolex 6265 “Big Red”

A perfectly preserved Big Red, a reference that is hard to find in this condition.

Rolex Oyster Cosmograph dial with black face, cream sub-dials and red Daytona signature
Rolex 6265 Big Red

Rolex 6105 in pink gold

A sublime timepiece with a pink gold case and black dial, rare to find in all-original, handsome condition.

Pink gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual with black dial, applied triangular markers and date window
Rolex 6105, pink gold case and black dial

Rolex 1680 Red Submariner

A MK5 Red Submariner.

Rolex Submariner dial with black face, red Submariner text and 660 ft/200 m depth rating
Rolex 1680 Red Submariner, MK5 dial

Rolex 1675 “Long E”

A perfectly preserved GMT-Master with the Long E dial.

Rolex GMT-Master dial with blue bezel insert and luminous triangle marker
Rolex 1675 with Long E dial

Rolex 1675 gilt

A perfectly preserved GMT-Master with gilt dial, hard to find in this condition.

Rolex GMT-Master dial with blue bezel insert, luminous markers and red GMT hand
Rolex 1675 with gilt dial

Rolex 1016 Explorer

An early Explorer from 1960 in excellent condition, with papers.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer dial with black face and luminous triangle at twelve
Rolex 1016 Explorer, 1960

Patek Philippe 3429 in white gold

Only 16 examples in white gold are known, and this one may well be the earliest.

Patek Philippe Genève dial with silver face, black baton markers and small seconds
Patek Philippe 3429 in white gold

Patek Philippe 2584 in yellow gold

A yellow gold 2584 with black dial, of which only two are known; this one is in NOS condition. It has a 36 mm case and the legendary 12-600 movement.

Patek Philippe Genève black dial with gold baton markers and small seconds in a gold case
Patek Philippe 2584, yellow gold with black dial

Patek Philippe 605HU

The only Heures Universelles known with its original box, certificat d’origine and description.

Patek Philippe world time dial with city names on the outer ring and Roman numerals in a gold case
Patek Philippe 605HU Heures Universelles

Patek Philippe 600P

A platinum case with a diamond-set dial and the original box. Examples in excellent condition are very rare.

Patek Philippe Genève silver dial set with diamonds and a baguette at twelve
Patek Philippe 600P in platinum, diamond-set dial

Patek Philippe 530 in pink gold

In excellent condition, and the only one known with a double Geneva seal on the movement, a mark normally reserved for chronometer pocket watches.

Patek Philippe Genève chronograph dial with tachymeter scale and pink gold hands
Patek Philippe 530 in pink gold

Patek Philippe 2499 in yellow gold, third series

Also very hard to find in great condition, and increasingly sought after.

Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph dial with moon phase and date scale
Patek Philippe 2499, yellow gold, third series