Benzinger – from sketch to finished watch

Atelier · · by Christian Bissener


Black and white photo of a watchmaker in profile working at a precision lathe

Jochen Benzinger is a master of guilloché, engraving and skeletonising by hand. All his watches are unique, and each client can personalise theirs with initials, a company logo or almost any other motif. His output is at most 50 watches a year.

This report follows the making of a Benzinger watch, here the 3/4 Skelett personalised for the Fondatioun Kriibskrank Kanner in Luxembourg. A watch of this kind took more than a hundred hours of handwork.

Silver Benzinger skeleton watch with rose gold scroll wheels and black strap, numbered photo 1
The dial side, left standard

Silver skeleton watch with blue and rose gold wheels, ruby jewels and black strap, numbered photo 2
The movement side, to be personalised

The drawing

For the Fondatioun project the 3/4 Skelett was chosen. The dial stayed standard, and Jochen Benzinger drew a design for the movement to personalise the watch.

Hand drawn sketch of a skeleton watch back with coloured annotations and a Fondation logo
The design for the movement

Guilloché

Guilloché is no longer taught today. Only a handful of guilloché engravers probably remain in the world, and Jochen Benzinger is one of them. The main stages are:

  1. hand guilloché of the plate;
  2. fixing the dial on its support;
  3. hand guilloché of the dial.

Close-up of a silver skeleton movement with rubies and gold wheels being worked with a tool
Hand guilloché of the plate

Close-up of tweezers holding a fine coiled spring beside a brass disc on a lathe
Hand guilloché of the dial

Engraving and skeletonising

The engraving and skeletonising are also done by hand, following detailed photographs. The stages shown are:

  1. hand engraving of the balance cock;
  2. hand skeletonising of the plate;
  3. hand engraving of the plate.

Close-up of tweezers placing a part on a silver skeleton movement with ruby jewels
Hand engraving of the balance cock

Black and white photo of a watchmaker with glasses and a loupe working on a small movement
Hand skeletonising of the plate

The finished parts

After guilloché, engraving and skeletonising by hand, the parts are finished in rose gold, yellow gold or rhodium.

Compartment box with small rose gold and silver watch parts and numbered labels
The finished parts

  1. Plate, dial side – here the 3/4 Skelett model.
  2. Barrel bridge, guilloché, engraved and skeletonised by hand. The personalised skeletonisation is the lion’s mane.
  3. Train bridge with the logo of the Fondatioun Kriibskrank Kanner, engraved and skeletonised by hand and personalised.
  4. Minute wheel, hand guilloché.
  5. Hour wheel, hand guilloché.
  6. Balance cock, engraved and skeletonised by hand and personalised.
  7. Pallet bridge, engraved and skeletonised by hand and personalised.
  8. Barrel, guilloché, skeletonised and engraved by hand.

The parts of the movement were taken apart for personalisation after a first assembly, so the client could see the watch before final assembly.

Silver skeleton movement plate with ruby jewels and rose gold wheels on a dark grey background
The movement after the first assembly

The finished watch

After more than a hundred hours of handwork, the watch is complete.

Caseback of a skeleton watch with ruby jewels and a colourful Fondatioun drawing behind
The finished watch, movement side

Front of a skeleton watch with rose gold movement on a tan strap, lion drawing behind
The finished watch, dial side

Benzinger watches can be ordered through Watch Collector – see Benzinger or get in touch.